A little after work birding

I had to run up to the office for a few days so I thought I'd try and fit in some after work birding.  I checked the sunset time tonight and thought I "might" have enough time to make it down to Col. Sam Smith Park before sunset.  This would be my second attempt at finding the long-staying Western Grebe & Harlequin Duck.  After fighting the Blue Jays traffic on the 427 (the ball club not the bird) I was at the park by 6:35.  Plenty of light left.

First stop was the marina for a quick scan.  Duck...duck....grebe!   Western Grebe to be more specific!   I didn't have a camera so I had to settle for the iScoped record shot.  New Ontario/Canada bird for me.   That was easy!   Scanned the rest of the birds and headed east.

After scanning the eastern bay, I was picking out a lot of species but not my target duck.  Still nice to be out though.  A photographer standing on the rock jetty caught my eye.  He seemed to be fixated on something.  Maybe my target?   I made my way over and struck up a conversation.  He wasn't familiar with the species.  That's ok - I wanted to find the duck on my own.  I moved the scope to a new spot and had a look.  Sitting dead centre was the Harlequin!  I love when that happens.  I invited the photographer over for a look.  I tried in vain to take a record shot but it would only stay on the surface long enough for the camera to focus and he was down.  I gave up and just watched it for a while. What a way to cap off the night.  Lifer!

A Snowy Surprise

This morning I went Birding with Paul Pratt's group at Hillman. We were rewarded with good looks at an immature and an adult Glaucous Gull as well as a few of the lingering Greater White-fronted Geese - a bird I actually just lifered last weekend.

After a few hours of windy birding, we headed to Janet's house out in the county for lunch. On the way there, I noticed a blob in the field. I thought for sure that it was just another bag - but nope - a Snowy! First one I've seen in the area this winter.

iScoped Snowy Owl - County Road 8, Essex County

After lunch, I met up with Jeremy Hatt back in the Hillman area. We were hoping to pick out a Ross's, Snow or Cackling Goose but no luck. Still a nice walk!

Tomorrow... I heard of a possible pair of Trumpeter Swans in Windsor so I might go have a look  in between some other commitments - it would be a nice bird to add to my winter list!

2012 Essex County Big Year in Review

If you've been following this blog you know that early last year I set a goal for myself to see and be able to ID 250 birds in Essex County within one year.  Well as you probably know, I was successful... and then some.  I actually ended the year at 261.  No record of course but I don't think it was too shabby for my first official year-and-a-half of birding!  In case you're interested, here's the complete list of the birds that I saw.

What was the Best Bird of 2012?

iBinned - Magnificent Frigatebird

I get asked a lot about what was my best bird and that's a tough one.  For me, it was more about being out there - looking, listening, and learning.  Some of the highlights for me included re-finding the Bell's Vireo, sitting in the parking lot and waiting for the Chuck-will's-widow to start calling, a self-found Cerulean Warbler, and a late-ish Virginia Rail found in Marsh this past Fall.  The greatest thing about 2012 was that a lot of birds that I saw and ID'd were completely new birds for me.

My favourite bird of the year, unfortunately did not count for my 'big year'.  This was the Magnificent Frigatebird at Rondeau.  This one was more about the experience.  I got to share this bird with Josh Vandermeulen, his girlfriend Laura, and my wife Sarah.  The long, sweaty walk down the beach was totally worth it -- just wish it would have made it's way down to Pelee!

A Tourist in my Own Backyard

Birding at the Sewage Lagoons

When I set out to 'see what I could see' in Essex County, I didn't realize how much of the area I had never seen before.  I grew up in the county but there were some areas that I had never been to or even knew existed.  I was a tourist in my own backyard and it was fantastic.  I'm looking forward to heading out to some of those spots again this year but this time more for fun. I still find it weird though to say - "Sewage Lagoons are a great spot to check out!"


One of my new favourite spots, aside from Point Pelee of course, is Pelee Island.  Sure, it's not always the easiest place to get to but there are some amazing habitats on the island.  If you've never been, you definitely need to check it out.  I know I'll be heading over at some point this year - and not just for the wine.

 

What about 2013?

I've been asked if I've set a new goal for this year.  The answer is absolutely.  I only have one goal for this year - enjoy every bird I see this year and not worry about numbers.  I don't regret setting a goal for 2012 (and then foolishly revising it higher when I met it) because it forced me to get out and to learn, but at times I wasn't really enjoying it.  I was getting frustrated because I wasn't finding new birds.  I know this is part of birding but when I set a goal, I am too stubborn not to reach it.  This frustration was the worst on December 30th - stuck at 259 for weeks.  I had crisscrossed the county for days in search of one more bird but was getting skunked.  Thanks again to Alan & Richard for finding that Purple Sandpiper and Iceland Gull on the 31st - it made my year!

This year is going to be a little different on a completely different front.  We've got a "birder", I mean bun in the oven!  We've been researching strollers that will be suitable for the trails - so if you have any advice, please send it along!  This baby is going to be a birder from day 1 I think!

Baby's First Bins

A Big Thank You

The birds were fantastic last year but the best thing about the year was all the great friendships that I've made.  Pretty much everyone I met was willing to teach me everything they know.  I can't express how thankful I am for the guidance and advice I received. I can't wait to get out there again with all of you this year!

A Few Other Pics from the Year...

Great Egret Roost - Holiday Beach

Sanderling - Point Pelee

Prothonotary Warbler

Sarah in the Fog at Pelee

Black-crowned Night Herons - Holiday Beach

Good Birding!

Kory

Right down to the wire!

I've been birding almost everyday for the last week and a half hoping to find one more bird. I was 'stuck' at 259 Essex County year birds - just 1 shy of my revised goal for the year.  Originally I was targeting 250, but as soon as I hit that, I thought why not go for 260!  I was turning up new winter birds but couldn't find that last year bird.  That all changed this morning.

After a lazy start this morning - been feeling a little birded out - I made my way to Leamington marina for a quick check then off to Point Pelee.  The winds were strong so I thought this might be the day --- it had to be since it was the last day of the year.  I haven't been bringing my camera along thinking that might change my luck but today I said to myself - bring it!!

I started out walking down the "42" trail to East Beach and then from there down to the tip.  I could see Alan Wormington & Richard Carr standing down at the tip.  I thought I saw one of them wave me down.  Was it a "hurry up and get down here" or just a "Hi" sort of wave?  I wasn't taking any chances so I picked up the pace.  As soon as I got there, Richard asked "You still stuck at 259? ... we've got something for you... A Purple Sandpiper!"  YES!  I got a quick ID look (just in case) and then made my way down for a better look and some pics.

I sent a few quick text messages off to those who I thought might want to come down for a look.  Jeremy Hatt, Dwayne Murphy and Jeremy Bensette all ended up getting great looks at the bird...  my Essex County year bird #260.

After doing a long lake watch, Alan picked out an Iceland Gull.  Another bird I needed.  I got on the bird quickly and had great looks.  Bird #261.  Both of these were life birds as well - what a great day.  A huge thanks to Alan and Richard!

Windy day at the Tip - Iceland Gull in there somewhere

I came home to this amazing card from my loving wife.  She knew about the Purple Sandpiper but she didn't know I got the Iceland too, so she just crossed out 260 and wrote 261.  Works for me!  I love this card.  She really supported me throughout this year so I thank her so much - especially for her patience and understanding!

What a year.  I plan on doing a full year in review post so look for that soon. 

All I Want for Christmas...

Just one more bird!  That's all I want.  I'm happily sitting at 259 (Cackling Goose was the latest) for Essex County... I just want that last one... but I'm running out of time!  It's not been for a lack of effort, there just hasn't been that many birds to chase, or when they did show up, other commitments got in the way (including a Florida vacation).  Why did all those birds pick the week I left to show up (Cave Swallow, Bohemian Waxwing, etc).  Oh well.  That's the way it goes.  After all, birds have wings.

Snow Buntings in there (iScoped)

I've been out as much as possible, including participating in the local CBCs.  I've had a great time birding with Sarah Rupert, Jeremy Hatt, Dwayne Murphy and Jeremy Bensette on these CBCs.  We turned up some pretty decent winter birds, just not one I can add to my list.  I finally got some good looks at some big flocks of Snow Buntings though, a bird I've only seen singles of!  I got some really bad iScope shots of the birds.  Check out the "flight" shot of the bird near the top.


I decided to do something different this morning.  I wanted to cover a part of the county I don't get to hit too often, in search of an elusive rare goose or gull.  I started out cutting across the county with the first target being area being River Canard.  There is still a lot of open water in parts and I've seen a lot of Canada Geese hanging out there but never had time to go through them in detail.  I was hoping to pull out a Greater White-Fronted or Snow but no luck.  I did pick out a couple Cackling -- good bird but not new.  On to the next area.

Next stop was LaSalle Marina - very quiet.  On to Ojibway.  No real target here but was just a spot I don't get to often.  I had a great long walk through the prairie and was able to turn up some good local birds include Titmice. I'd heard about a Northern Shrike in the area but didn't come across it.  A nice walk though.

Next stop or area to cover was a long stretch of the Detroit River, all the way up to 26 Stop Beach.  I checked every group of geese and gulls I came across but nothing unusual.  After spending some time at the beach checking every gull 4-5 times looking for that Kittiwake that Tom Hince found the other day, I decided to head back home... well at least in the direction of home.

Headed down to the mouth of River Canard but it was mostly frozen.  Not much here except for a Great Blue standing on the ice.  I decided to head back up and check the geese up on Canard Drive (Snake Lane) one more time...  So many geese to go through, but couldn't pick out anything new.

Next area to check was around Holiday Beach.  There was a Snowy Owl reported last week.  Would have been a good day bird but I didn't find it.  I did find this Great Blue below hanging out on the completely frozen marsh.  Shouldn't it be moving on to a better spot?

Great Blue and a frozen marsh

Harrow Lagoons.  Last stop?  Yeah right.  I was determined.  The only cell that wasn't frozen was the one at the far end with the pumps.  Just some Northern Shovelers.  Oh well.  Worth a check.  Off to Kingsville/Cedar Beach.

Lots of gulls out in areas I couldn't get to because of private property.  It was getting dark so it was hard to scope out anything from down the coast.  Oh well.  One last check at the Marina - a couple of Double-crested Cormorants and some of the regular gulls.

It was a bit disappointing, but still a good day to be out.  There's always tomorrow (at least until the 31st) to get a new bird! 

Stay tuned for a full year in review --- hopefully after I hit 260!  Merry Christmas / Happy Holidays!!

Two More to Go

I'm now sitting at 258 Essex County year birds!  After surpassing my original goal of 250, I've now got my eyes on 260.  I think it's doable, but I just need some birds to show up when I'm around and have time to chase them.  Again, I'm not trying to set any record, just trying to learn everything I can.

Unfortunately for the latest birds, I didn't get any pictures.  Mostly my fault for being a little lazy.

256 - Red Crossbill.  Being an irruption year, I'd really hope to come across this bird.  I've seen reports of single birds around in the area but I hadn't been lucky enough to come across one until I took a quick lunch break at Cedar Creek Conservation Area.  The CA is about 5 minutes from my house so I grabbed a sandwich and headed out for a quick walk and I was rewarded!  I had been studying the calls of all the 'types' of Red Crossbills all Fall and that work payed off.  I heard the kip-kip flight call from a long way off and as luck would have it, it landed right in the heavily coned pine tree right above my head.  It gave me just enough time to get my bins on it for a good look but not enough time for a picture before it took off again - calling.  Lifer!

257 - Northern Goshawk.  I was worried I was going to miss this raptor for the year because I've seen the reports start to drop off.  It was my weekend to cover the hawk count at Holiday Beach and it turns out it was the perfect weekend to count - finally got it!  It was poor lighting for pictures so I didn't even bring the camera up on the tower with me (lazy).  Learned my lesson on that one.  The Goshawk flew just north of the tower and gave me all of the ID features I needed.  Great bird on a quiet migration day!

258 - Le Conte's Sparrow. Yes for real.  This one was completely by accident.  I wasn't chasing it even though Alan Wormington and Michael Tate had reported seeing one a few days earlier in the tram turnaround area at Point Pelee.  I just happened to be walking back to my car after finding nothing in Sparrow Field when a "small sparrow" caught my eye.  I had a feeling I had to find that bird even though I wasn't thinking Le Conte's at the time, it was only because I wasn't seeing much in the park! I had forgotten about the Ontbirds posting.  Got a little closer and there it was - just skulking around in the brush.  I got really good looks at the bird when I said to myself, "I should really take a picture."  Camera was in the car less than 20 feet away so I ran over to car, but again my laziness burned me.  I couldn't find the bird again.  Less learned again.


Just 2 more birds to go.  Hopefully some rare geese start showing up, or a gull, or anything I don't already have.  I'm doing a few of the Christmas Bird Counts so who knows, maybe something will turn up then with everyone checking the county - as long as it's before December 31 at 11:59pm!


I'd didn't want to have a photoless post so here's some yard bird shots (blurry because they were shot through the window).  The yard bird list is growing even though our neighborhood is pretty treeless -- Reb-breasted Nuthatch, Northern Flicker, Purple Finch, and Yellow-rumped Warbler added so far this year.  

"Dave" The Downy - Outsmarted a
Cooper's Hawk in the yard recently

Pine Siskens showed up for a few days

Essex County Big Year 250 & Counting...

About a month ago, I wrote about how close I was to hitting my target for the year - 250 birds ID'd in Essex County.  I was sitting at 247.  Well things have improved greatly over the past few weeks.  I hit my goal and I'm still counting.  I'm now sitting at 255 birds with a few more birds that are still 'doable' for the year!  Again, I wasn't out to set any big records, just to learn the birds.  Here's a quick listing of the new birds I picked up recently...

Horrible iScoped Red Phalarope

248 - Red Phalarope at Hillman Marsh.  After a day of counting hawks at Holiday Beach, I ran out as the sun was going down to try and find this bird that many had reported seeing the day before and earlier in the day. I scanned the water for a few minutes before I moved the scope and had a look.  There it was, dead centre in the scope.  I love when that happens!  I snapped off a few quick ID iscope shots, nothing great but it was there.

249 - Sedge Wren at Point Pelee.  Sarah and I just ran out for a quick walk down to the tip before the sun set and the park closed.  On the way back to the car, with only a few minutes left to get to the car and get out before closing, a small bird scurried in front of us.  I thought, hmm.. Winter Wren?  No, something didn't feel right about it.  I kept looking even though I could see the park staff waiting for us as well as a few other stragglers so they could close the park.  It popped up for a few seconds and I got great looks within 3 feet.  I knew right away what I was looking at.  Steve Pike had seen a Sedge Wren earlier in the week so I had been studying the picture and behaviour.  It didn't call but I didn't need it to.  Lifer!  Unfortunately no pics because I knew the park staff was getting anxious for us to leave.

250 "The Goal" - Red-throated Loon at Point Pelee.  I was lucky enough to share my 250th with Jeremy Hatt and Marianne Reid-Balkwill.  Marianne and Jeremy spotted it first but I got on it in flight quickly.  They had already called out what it was but I couldn't count it yet.  I've mentioned it before, but I have a strict rule for myself.  I have to be able to ID it myself.  If someone calls out a bird, I have to confidently figure out why it is what they say it is.  I studied this bird and could clearly make out a lot of differences between it and a Common Loon.  I can count it!  Thanks Marianne & Jeremy!!  I could feel the pressure I've put on myself easing.  I was getting too caught up in hitting that number instead of just enjoying birding.  What a great feeling.  A new life bird as well!!

Not stopping there...

251 - Evening Grosbeak at Days Inn/Sturgeon Creek - Not a life bird but a great bird for Essex County.  Too bad it was just a flyover!  Sarah and I have watched these birds at the Algonquin Visitor Centre but it was nice to have them in our area.   Now, I just need to add this bird to my yard list...

252 - Cattle Egret at Point Pelee at A great bird to add to my year and Pelee list.  This storm driven, wet and tired bird was hanging out behind the Visitor Centre.  Thanks to Sarah Rupert for the heads up on this bird!

Yes - That's a Red-necked Grebe

253 - Red-necked Grebe at Hillman North Beach - Thanks to Jeremy Hatt for a text about this one!  He found it earlier in the day from the beach so I headed out after work in hopes that it would still be around.  After scanning for about 45 minutes, I was about to give up when a "new" Grebe came swimming around the point.  It was larger than the other Horned Grebes so I figured I had it.  I waited for it to swim in closer so I could get a better look.  Tick!  It was a juvenile bird with some very distinct markings making me 100% confident in my ID.

254 - Snow Bunting at Sturgeon Creek - This bird eluded me all last winter.  I couldn't find one while others were getting bored of seeing them!  Again, big thanks to Sarah for the heads up about this bird and for Jeremy confirming he also saw it.   I couldn't believe I was actually twitching a  Snow Bunting but I wasn't going to let this one get away.

and where I sit today...

255 - Golden Eagle at Holiday Beach - I predicted this bird would be my 250th bird but 255th isn't half bad!  I got to see 10 of these amazing eagles that day on the tower.  If you haven't been to the tower, you should check it out because you never know what's going to fly over.


Even though I've hit my goal, I'm not giving up yet.  I still need a few fairly common geese (Snow, White-fronted, Cackling), Kittiwake, Cave Swallow (please stick around for 1 more week), Northern Goshawk and a few others.  Let me know if you come across these!



On a side note - Huge congrats to Josh Vandermeulen - He's doing a true Big Year and he recently set a new Ontario Big Year record!

My Essex County "Big Year"

I started birding in May of 2011 but only started taking it seriously last Fall.  I found myself picking up ID features and a few calls but was determined to learn more - I was hooked.  I spent a lot of time on the hawk tower at Holiday Beach last fall and I found myself birding at every opportunity and keeping track on e-bird (you should be too if you're not!).  I didn't care what the weather was, it was just great to be outside and I was loving the challenge of IDing new birds.  I've also joined a few birding organizations - Holiday Beach Migration Observatory and OFO - it really is an addictive pastime.

I went out to see the movie The Big Year with a large group of local birders.  It got me thinking and asking the question - How many birds could I ID in one year in Essex County?  I knew I wouldn't be able to travel all over North America but I could definitely swing my own 'backyard'.  With areas like Point Pelee, Ojibway Park, Holiday Beach, and Hillman Marsh in my territory, I figured I should go for it.  I knew I wouldn't be breaking any records, but I needed a new challenge and it would force me to study the birds.  I set a goal in March of 250 birds - just an arbitrary number.

Well, low and behold, I'm right on track (fingers crossed) to hit my target.  As of last night, I hit 247 species that I was able to ID myself either by call or visual.  The last two birds being a Virginia Rail and a Northern Saw-whet Owl.  Both species that I was trying hard for early in the year and through the spring.  I "knew" in my brain that I saw a Virginia on Pelee Island in the spring, but the view was so quick and no one else in the group noticed it, I didn't count it.  That one was really bugging me all spring and summer because I wasn't seeing or hearing any in the area.  They were being reported, I just didn't find one.

I ran into Dwayne Murphy the other day at Point Pelee and he mentioned that he had seen a Virginia off the marsh boardwalk.  I was determined to get that bird.  I tried for about 30 minutes with no luck - lots of Soras though.  The next morning, that bird was my goal - this time I wasn't disappointed.  It popped out of the reeds 2 times for me.  First time I got enough on it to call it but I stuck around to get a better look.  I didn't get any good pics but I did get my "ID" shot - good enough!

The next night I got word that Northern Saw-whet owls are on the move in the area.   I headed out to the banding station to help out.  I knew I couldn't count the bird if it was in the net, banded, or released but at least I could get a look at these little guys.  Well just before the banding process was set up and started, one started calling!  Tick!  Bird number 247.   Two new birds in 2 days.  Both Lifers.  What a great week.

Even if I don't hit 250, I'm pretty happy with what I've been able to accomplish so far, especially since I'm just a year and half in to my birding "career".  I'm hoping for some snow in December - I still need that pesky Snow Bunting!  They eluded me in the area last winter.  It won't be a lifer, but a new winter bird.

In case you're interested, here's a list of my birds so far...

Next bird prediction - Golden Eagle (or a Swainson's Hawk would be nice!)

Gros Morne - Long Range Traverse (or bust!) - Part 2

Day 3 - "The" View of the Trip

After that nice dip in the lake, I think we all slept pretty well that night - complete with serenading loons.  It rained heavily overnight and we woke up to a light drizzle.  While we had a little break in the rain, we quickly packed up the tent to make sure we kept everything as dry as possible.  Even in the fog and mist this morning, the place just has indescribable beauty.   After a quick breakfast, we were off!

Turns out this was my most memorable day of the trip for quite a few reasons.  Here's the first.  As Colin was leading the group through some tuckamore, he flushed a few decent sized birds - a species I was really hoping to see - Rock Ptarmigan!  Unfortunately I only caught them fleeing.  Enough to ID them and add to my life list, but not the looks I had hoped for.  Well, that wouldn't be the end of that.  A little further down the trail, we run into a breeding pair!  They were cooing back and forth to each other, all while keeping an eye on us.  They didn't fly away.  We were able to get fantastic looks and some ok/ID pictures.  Highlight #1 of this day.

The dreary morning weather cleared to amazingly blue skies.  The temperature was rising again.  Another day of completely unexpected, fantastic weather.  You have to remind yourself to keep drinking but it never seems to be enough.  The water here is so fresh that you can just drink out of most streams.  Except for one.  We came across a typical water filling spot, complete with recent beaver activity.  We had to move on to the next spot for water.  No taking changes with giardia.

Our lunch break was on top of a high plateau.  Gros Morne Mountain was now in view and so was the ocean.  It was the perfect spot for lunch.  What a view! What an accomplishment so far!  Highlight #2.

Colin, our leader was pushing the group a bit today, in a good way.  The weather was perfect and he knew that THE VIEW of the trip would be in reach and would be clear of fog.  We trudged on.  He didn't lie.  Once we got to our late afternoon break spot, the view was incredible.  I'm so glad everyone was able to push on today because Colin mentioned that every other time he'd been up on the Traverse, it had been foggy so this was his first view of this.  The picture does not do it justice.  Highlight #3 for those that are counting.

After a lengthy and well-deserved break at the lookout, we decided to continue on and push for Ferry Gultch tonight.  This would mean that we get to climb Gros Morne Mountain.  An unexpected plus.  Along the way to the Gultch, we pass 'Caribou Rock.' No caribou.  Which was the story for the trip.  Oh well.  It just means we have to go back! We did get a quick look at an Arctic Hare - they're huge and fast!  Hightlight #4

We had read about the decent into Ferry Gultch.  It would be very steep and treacherous.  The plan was to take it slow and steady.  Which is exactly what we did.  Colin took us down the "easy" way.  Again, easy is a relative term on the Traverse but we all made it down safely.  Ferry Gultch is at the back side of Gros Morne Mountain.  We set up our tents with the sun going down and Colin got dinner started.  Best trail pasta I've ever had.  Gros Morne Adventures - your meals are delicious!

This was the longest day of hiking that we'd done so far.  I felt great.  I was tired but I just looked up to the top of the Gultch and was kinda proud at what we'd accomplished.  We've read about many people who had to make the decision not to finish for one reason or another.  We were almost done.  Bitter sweet to say the least.

But the day wasn't over yet.  The evening entertainment was just about to walk past us.  Moose.  Two of them.  They knew we were there but they didn't seem to mind. At first.  Everyone was turning in for the night at about 9:30pm (I think - no watch) so Sarah and I were watching the moose that was not too far from our tent.  It saw us looking at him.  He didn't like that.  He made a little charge toward us.  A false charge none the less but still it's a huge beast. I told Sarah to point her headlamp down and the moose settled back down.  Maybe it was just the light he didn't like.  He went back to eating a little further away so we got in the tent and fell asleep.  I woke up in the middle of the night to some rustling outside the tent. Moose. Again.  And man was it close.  I could hear it eating the grass right near our tent.  It was so close I could hear it breathe.  I just thought.  Oh I hope Sarah doesn't wake up or roll over right now and freak that moose out.  I sat up for a bit, hoping it would just walk on by without walking through our tent.  Well I'm typing this so it turned out ok.  In the morning I told Sarah about what happened.  She had earplugs in so she didn't hear a thing.  I found the footprints - they were less than 5 feet from the tent.  Highlight #5.

Day 4 - Gros Morne & Done

We woke up a little later this morning.  We had breakfast and packed up our gear.  We piled everything together and took off the "day" pack part of our backpacks (the top part of some backpacks can unsnap and they turn into a fanny pack).  Water, snacks, and cameras were all we needed for the hike up Gros Morne Mountain.  We'd come back for our gear later to head out and back to the parking lot.

It was a weird feeling hiking without the pack on.   We climbed up the back side of the mountain where most people would be coming down the mountain.  Most day-hikers climb up the front side of the mountain and go down the back.  We would be going up from the back and returning down the back.  The back had over 100 stairs to climb that the park had put in to make it easier.  Sarah counted but I can't remember what the number was.  We started the hike off in the fog but it didn't matter.  Sarah and I had thought about climbing the mountain on our own after the Traverse hike so this was a bonus to get it all in in one go. 


Gros Morne Mountain is made up of mostly loose rock but there are clearly marked trails.  We hiked to the highest point and we all got our pictures taken with the sign.  Still foggy but it seemed to be thinning out a bit so we hiked over to the lookout.  Just as we got there, the fog cleared.  Another outstanding vista.  We could look back and see where we were standing on the other side just the day before.  It seemed so far away.

After taking countless pictures and looking at more moose up on the ridge, we pushed on to return to the Gultch, pick up our gear and start our hike out.  Colin assured us that the trail out was very easy.  Remember - easy is a relative term in Gros Morne.

The trail out skirts along the side of the mountain.  Sometimes you are walking over scree slides and jagged rocks but we trudged on.  I just kept thinking, wow, we're almost done.  Those last few kilometres seemed to take a long time.  I think we were all just really tired at that point.  The sun definitely drains you as well.  Again - not complaining!  Colin called out "Last kilometre".  Part me wanted to sprint just to say I did it and part of me wanted to turn around and hike more.  Another bittersweet moment.

By that point you could hear traffic and civilization.  Sure, we'd seen a lot of dayhikers on the Gros Morne Mountain trail, but you don't really think of civilization until you hear the sound of cars on the highway.  The hike is done.  We did it.  All of us.  High-fives and the ceremonious "end of the trail" group picture was taken.  What a fantastic group!  Thank you everyone for making this a truly memorable experience.

We hiked over 45kms as the crow flys, not accounting for any increase or decreases in elevation.  The longest backpacking trip that I've done.  And definitely not the last.  A trip to remember is an understatement - a true accomplishment.

Gros Morne - Long Range Traverse (or bust!) - Part 1

Sarah and I had been working on prepping our gear and our bodies for the last 7 months for what some describe as one of the toughest hikes in Eastern North America - the Long Range Traverse in Gros Morne National Park.  We decided right from the beginning that we'd do the hike guided.  Not because we needed to, but more so that we can take time to enjoy it.  The terrain is rough, weather is unpredictable and there are no marked trails.  You actually have to pass a navigation/map & compass test before you get your permits if you're hiking it without a guide.  Again - not a big deal because I have taken courses and I'm confident in my map skills but it would be one less thing to have to focus so heavily on.  We wanted to have more time to take pictures and just 'take it all in' - the wonder that this place has to offer - Turns out this decision was the right one

Prep Day - Aug 6, 2012

Our first day started out at Gros Morne Adventures in Norris Point, NL, our outfitter for the trip.  I can't say enough about this company.  They are amazing and definitely have their stuff together!  We met our guide, Colin as well as the others in our group who would be heading out first thing in the morning together.  After some introductions, we got down to the business of finalizing the packing of our packs.  We were to only bring our packs, clothes, sleeping bags, and other odds and ends and the outfitter would provide the rest.  This was something new for us.  If we were doing the trip, we'd know days in advance how much and what we'd be carrying.  We were a little worried we wouldn't have room for everything we'd need to carry.  Turns out it was fine.  It was actually less communal gear than we were expecting.  I was expecting about 40lbs of gear in my pack but it ended up a few pounds less.  After packing, most of us headed up to 1 of the 2 restaurants in town to grab some dinner and get to bed.  The next day was the real start.

Day 1 - Western Brook Pond & Up! - Aug 7

We were picked up at about 8am from where we were staying in Norris Point for the trip up to Western Brook Pond.  We had an easy 3km hike to get to our tour boat that takes us down Western Brook Pond and drops us off at the far end to begin the real hike.  The boat tour itself was good and the beauty of the shear cliffs we were staring at was even better.  Then a sinking feeling hit.  We had to get to the top of these 700-800 metre high cliffs.  This is what we trained for and was personally what I was a little nervous about.  Did I train enough?  Could I have done something different?  Too late for those thoughts.

We shared the boat with just regular tourists.  They would be returning to the dock where we started.  Not us.  At the end of fjord, we quickly jumped off to a small wooden dock and the rest of the tour wished us good luck.  I overhead the tour guide on the boat as they pulled away, "Now that they bears have been fed..."  I'm sure that's the standard line...

After a quick adjustment of the packs, we were off.  You could see the waterfall that we had to get to and climb up.  Camp would be just up top.  The terrain here would be something we wouldn't see again for the next few days, until the climb back down at the other end of the Traverse.  Mixed forest with bolders strewn everywhere.  The smell of ferns and dampness was fantastic.  The weather was a lot hotter than we were expecting.  We expected cold and rain but sun and heat was just fine by me.  This was it.  We were doing it.  My legs felt good, pack was comfortable and the new boots were still dry.  So far so good. 

We trudged along for most of the day, taking breaks as necessary for water.  You can drink the water without filtering!!  Our guide Colin was amazed at how low the water levels of ponds and creeks were that we'd pass.  Apparently they were experiencing a very dry summer, just like those of us from Ontario (turns out the hikers in our group were all from Ontario).  One of the 'coolest' things (wait for the pun) about the hike through this terrain was that every once and a while, you would feel a cool breeze coming out from a vent in a cave beneath some of the large rocks.  It cooled you off nicely and then when you got past the vent, you were blasted again by the hot, humid summer air.

When we made it to the waterfall and the far end of gorge, we took an extended break.   A few of us climbed up the smooth rock face to have a look back at where we'd come from.  We made some good distance, but we all knew the challenge wasn't over yet.  We still had to get to the top of the waterfall, taking what was called the "easy" route.  Easy is a relative term, something that I've learned on this hike.  I was up for the challenge though.

We made it.  All of us.  We turned around to see the view.  The pictures don't do it justice.  It is indescribable and something I won't forget.  I was proud of Sarah (and myself).  The training paid off.  We took our pictures and set off to set up camp, just before the rain started.  Perfect.  Colin set up a tarp and got dinner going.  It was delicious.  Especially because I didn't have to cook it! Day 1 was in the books.

Day 2 - Hardings Pond

The rain stopped overnight and the sun was shining!  The view was even better this morning.  Truly unbelievable.  You can even make out the little dock that we got dropped off in the right corner where the water meets the greenery.  Day 2 was going to be our first trudge above the tree line here.  It was mostly rock and bog - sphagnum moss mostly.  We'd be following Caribou trails where we could be here's where it gets tricky.  The Caribou don't always travel the way you want to go and here's where a lot of inexperienced hikers get lost, especially when you have to head through the tuckamore (stunted fir and spruce trees).

We had a break at one of the Park's official campsites.  The park puts in tent platforms and thunder boxes on their designated sites.  We didn't really use these since we're with a guiding company.  They know the dry spots to camp and the good "facilitrees." 

The weather was forecasted to be raining all day.  Not the case.  We had gorgeous, in fact hot sunny weather all day.  We were all drenched in sweat.  Colin made sure the group was staying hydrated.  Along the way, there were many blueberry and 'bakeapple' bushes.  So good!  I prefer the blueberries over the bakeapples but they were still good.  Sarah loved the bakeapples so she bought some jam at a local shop after the hike. 

Even though this was not a birding trip, I couldn't help but pay attention to what I was hearing and seeing.  It was hard to miss the White-throated Sparrows.  They were singing everywhere.  Ravens would show up from time to time, even an occasional Ring-billed gull made the trip up to the highlands' many lakes.  The highlight was of course the pair of loons on Hardings Pond.  Our campsite for the day.

The site was on a sandy beach.  The spot is a Park's site, with tent pads but the tent pads were taken by other hikers that we saw on our tour boat.  For some reason, the Park took out a few tent pads, but it didn't matter.  We just set up camp right on the beach.  The thunderbox was a nice luxury until someone noticed it was leaking (and full) .. but I digress.  The site was perfect.  Everyone went for a swim.  We all needed to cool off after that hot day of hiking - not that I'm complaining - I was just surprised.

Dinner was delicious again.  It was a shrimp curry.  Gros Morne Adventures dries their own food so it was way better than those pre-packed dried foods.  Dessert was amazing - fresh blueberry & bakeapple cheesecake.  Picked fresh on our hike to the site.  Another perfect ending.  Off to bed while the loons are calling.


To be continued....